One of the biggest perks of my job as a travel writer is visiting incredible destinations and properties across the globe. I’ve stayed in a private villa in Bali, a luxe tent in the middle of the Serengeti, and the kangaroo-filled Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley hotel in Australia. But, nothing prepared me for the purely indulgent feeling of lounging on a floating sun chair in a private infinity pool, overlooking the picturesque turquoise waters of the Caribbean as staff member approached me with a glass of champagne I didn’t order while a chef-prepared my next Michelin-worthy meal in the nearby kitchen. And did I mention that glass floated in the pool so I could take a dip without disturbing my bubbly?

Yes, I was on Richard Branson’s new private island called Moskito for the next five days and got to experience the billionaire lifestyle firsthand.

An aerial view of Moskito Island

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While Necker Island—the Virgin founder’s original private island—has been famous for decades, with everyone from President Obama to Princess Diana visiting, Branson purchased another exclusive 125-acre beach playground just two miles away. But instead of keeping it all to himself, the entrepreneur decided to build a home and then sell nine other plots where others could build their dream beach house. Of those homes, three are available for rent. The Branson Estate was the first opening in 2020, and two new mansions—The Oasis Estate and The Point Estate—opened to guests in late October. And, though rates start at $17,500 a night, I was invited to preview it all for free before the houses went up for rent.

After two flights, I (along with other journalists traveling with me) stepped off a privately-chartered speed boat and accepted a chilled flute of Veuve Clicquot as at least five staff greeted me by name and I laid eyes for the first time on what would be my home for the next few days. That moment would be a theme throughout my time on the island: top-shelf booze served on a silver platter and a staff so attentive my brain, too, could go “out of office.”

For my first two nights I stayed at Branson’s family home on the island naturally dubbed “The Branson Estate.” I had to pinch myself when I was handed yet another glass of champagne as the estate manager enthusiastically toured us through the two-story main house called Headland House. My brain was having trouble processing luxe input as I walked past an infinity pool, two kitchens, and into Richard’s master bedroom where family photos hung on the walls and the doors opened directly to the pool.

And this part of the estate was just the social gathering point. My beachfront room was in one of the other two treehouse-like villas—which were connected by elevated wooden walkways—and made it possible to fall asleep to the waves crashing below.

Moskito Island’s tennis court

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Before departing, a staff member showed me a phone in my bedroom to reach someone any time of day if needed. My first thought was that this was a billionaire’s amenity I would never use until I couldn’t figure out my air conditioning in the middle of the night. As you’d imagine, someone showed up pretty much instantaneously to remedy my well-to-do situation. All of this indulgent introduction was happening as a chef-prepared an exquisite dinner on one of the many ocean-view balconies back at Headland House.

The next few days were luxurious variations of the same hospitality and accommodations. A chef prepared each meal with dishes ranging from truffle pizza to heaping platters of tuna sashimi, and freshly chopped coconuts were always available at breakfast. As an early riser, I was prepared to make myself a coffee. But, no, there was someone ready at 6 am to make my latte (certainly a far cry from my pod coffee machine at home).

No matter the time of day, someone from the staff was available to play tennis on the grass court, go sailing in a small catamaran to the coral reefs, take you on a hike along the island’s ridge, or set up s’mores by the in-pool fire pit, all of which I got to experience during my stay. It was truly whatever you wanted when you wanted. (I was even told the Moskito team flew in specific spices from a market in Mexico for a guest.)

After two nights in the barefoot luxury-style Branson Estate, I moved to the James Bond-esque Oasis Estate. Perched on the highest point of Moskito Island, the sleek, modern, nine-room home comprised floor-to-ceiling windows that opened to the outdoors and a master suite boasting an outdoor tub with sunset views. I got the party-pad vibe upon entering through a water-curtain adorned walkway into a white-hued great room with a sunken bar situated in the center. Of course, a bartender was there, ready to serve. It was at this home where I had that aforementioned surreal infinity-pool floating sun chair moment, and took a spin on a Peloton bike from the ocean-facing gym.

Meanwhile, The Point Estate—where I enjoyed a breakfast and dinner in (yes in) the pool—was a homey, global-inspired property with 180-degree water views. It’s also the only property with direct access to the communal Manchioneel Beach: I simply walked down a short path to a white sand paradise where oceanfront loungers were lined up ready to be laid in, a floating trampoline begged to be played with, and several staff were eager to serve me. I opted to take a dip in the bathwater-warm sea and was greeted with a fruit juice cocktail before my feet even touched dry sand.

The interior of the open-air Beach House recreational area

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In fact, there’s an entire community recreational area dubbed the Beach House where the locals (a.k.a. estate owners and guests) can enjoy a bar, tennis pavilion, and dining venue. It’s the spot where you might bump into Branson himself, who likes to pop over when he’s staying on Necker Island (which is often).

I’d like to say that I felt out of my element during my time on Moskito, but I quickly settled into my new lifestyle. I got used to staff preparing every meal, doing my laundry, and even being eager to go on a sweaty hike with me. The only thing I had to worry about was how I was going to finish the bottle of champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries in my room each night. And that, I came to learn, was the rare essence of a billionaire’s vacation.

So, needless to say, it was a huge shock when my husband didn’t greet me with champagne when I returned home.